This collection includes hats created in a tribute to artists and writers who I admire, including Salvador Dali, Henry Matisse, Lee Ufan, Yves Klein, Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh, John Singer Sargent and Rene Magritte. These hats are inspired by their unique work or style. Stories and images provided by Echo He, photographer: Manling Wu/Lilian Radovac, English translator: Hansi Liao. All rights reserved by Chapeau Echo.

这个系列的复古礼帽是向我喜爱的艺术家和文学家致敬,如达利、马蒂斯、玛格利特、李禹焕、梵高、莫奈、伊夫.克莱茵、萨金特、三岛由纪夫。它们受这些艺术家独特的艺术风格和理念启发。摄影师:吴曼伶/Lilian Radovac。英文翻译:廖汉斯。图片版权所有:回声古董帽。

20150524_Magritte_v.3.jpg

Gift to Little Bar 小酒馆的礼物

Gift to Little Bar 小酒馆的礼物, 2017. Xuan paper and ink, gift from Lin Yan.

与林延为她在否画廊的展览布展时萌生了用她的宣纸创作礼帽的概念,于是做了这顶帽子,纯粹的黑白两色, 融合了不同材质的手工纸。这顶帽子现属于小酒馆的创始人唐蕾,是送给小酒馆的礼物. 2017年秋天新揭幕的小酒馆艺术空间Littlespace将展出20年前在成都生活的艺术家们(张晓刚、周春芽、何多苓等)为小酒馆创作的画,以及20年以来受小酒馆影响成长的年轻一代创作者的作品,是大家给小酒馆一份特别的礼物。

The idea of making hat with Xuan paper is inspired by Lin Yan and her artwork of Xuan paper and ink. I made this hat while assisting Lin Yan to prepare her exhibition at Fou Gallery. Purely black and white, the hat is made of handmade paper with differen textures. Now it belongs to Tang Lei, the founder of Little Bar in Chengdu. Little Bar is going to open an art space/bar space this autumn, with an exhibition of works that artists (including Zhang Xiaogang, Zhou Chunya, He Duoling and many Chinese contemporary artists, etc.) created for Little Bar when it opened 20 years ago, and new creation by artists influenced by the concept and philosophy of Little Bar. Therefore, the hat is a special gift of mine to Tang Lei and to Little Bar.


Unicorn Garden 独角兽花园

Unicorn Garden 独角兽花园, 2017. Handpainted teardrop fascinator base; silver sinamay cut from London; dusty pink sinamay cut from London; clear onaments as a gift from Lin Lin.

Inspired by The Unicorn Captivity at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection, the fasinator features a white unicorn constrained by the fence. Although the fence is low enough to leap over, the unicorn doesn't to seek for escape. His confinement is a happy one, representing a beloved tame. The hat is customized made for Jiaqiu Xie in Chengdu.

这顶礼帽是受大都会博物馆馆藏的独角兽织毯启发而做,上面有一只白色的独角兽。在原作中,独角兽置身于围栏环绕的花园中,虽然围栏很低,但它并不尝试逃脱,而是享受这种束缚,代表着一种驯服的爱。这顶礼帽为成都的谢佳秋定制

The Unicorn in Captivity (from the Unicorn Tapestries), 1495–1505. South Netherlandish. The collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.


Montevideo 蒙得维的亚

Montevideo 蒙得维的亚, 2017. Hand painted sinamay round fascinator base from London; ivory veiling from London; silver veiling from London; ivory mesh from New York; shining golden yarn from New York; a vintage flower brooch from East Village, New York.

“时间中虚假的门,
你的街道朝向更轻柔的往昔。
黎明之光,它送出的早晨向我们走来,越过甘甜的褐色海水。
在照亮我的百叶窗之前,你低低的日色已赐福于你的花园。
被听成了一首诗的城市, 拥有庭院之光的街道。 ”
——博尔赫斯《蒙得维的亚》
"False door on time, your streets seem to belong to a quieter past.
Dawnlight from where morning comes to us, over the sweet brown waters.
Before reaching my blinds, the sunrise has brightened your gardens.
City that can be heard as a verse.
Streets with light like a patio’s. "
- Jorge Luis Borges Montevideo

Thus They Listern 像这样细细地听

Thus They Listern 像这样细细地听, 2017. Hand painted cotton teardrop fascinator base; black feather from New York; ivory ostrich feather from London; vintage lotus flower brooch from Brooklyn; blue sinamay cut from London; blue yarn from Brooklyn; ivory veiling from London.

 

"Thus they listen..
Thus they listen to the source Listens - the mouth.
Thus they smell a flower: Deeply - till feeling's loss!
Thus there's bottomless thirst In the indigo air.
Thus children, in blueness of sheets, Into the memory peer.
Thus the teenager feels Blood - until the lotus...
Thus one falls in love: Falls into the abyss."
- Marina Tsvetaeva Thus They Listen

This hat is customize made for Chunyi in Beijing, according to her favorite poem by Marina Tsvetaeva.

“像这样细细地听,
如河口 凝神倾听自己的源头。
像这样深深地嗅,
嗅一朵小花,
直到知觉化为乌有。
像这样,
在蔚蓝的空气里 溶进了无底的渴望。
像这样,
在床单的蔚蓝里 孩子遥望记忆的远方。
像这样,莲花般的少年 默默体验血的温泉……
就像这样,与爱情相恋
就像这样,落入深渊。”
——茨维塔耶娃《像这样细细地听》

 

这顶礼帽是给北京的纯一的定制,以她喜欢的诗为主题。


COMPLEMENTARY III 互补3

Complementary 3 互补3, 2017. Handpainted cotton fascinator base; painted orchid flower; golden vintage fabric from artist Morgan O'Hara's collection; ceramic beads made by artist Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

Inspired by Renqian Yang's exhibition Complementary Colors at Fou Gallery, I become interested in the color theory. In this hat, I try to use materials with complementary colors. The idea of complementary colors resonates with yin and yang in Chinese philosophy—seemingly opposite forces may actually be complementary and interconnected in the natural world. They may give rise to each other as they interact with each other. The hat also features ceramic beads made by Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

Now it belongs to Vicky in New York.

受杨人倩在否画廊的展览《对比》启发,我开始对色彩理论感兴趣。在制作这顶帽子时,我尝试运用补色的材料。补色的概念也呼应了中国哲学中的阴阳概念——自然万物皆有互相对立的属性,但也互相依存和转化。这顶帽子上有人倩在景德镇制作的一些陶瓷珠。

现在属于纽约的Vicky.


COMPLEMENTARY II 互补2

Complementary II 互补2, 2017. Handpainted cotton fascinator base; painted dusty pink and royal blue sinamay cut from London; pink ostrich feather from London; ceramic leaf from artist Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

"Inspired by Renqian Yang's exhibition Complementary Colors at Fou Gallery, I become interested in the color theory. In this hat, I try to use materials with complementary colors. The idea of complementary colors resonates with yin and yang in Chinese philosophy—seemingly opposite forces may actually be complementary and interconnected in the natural world. They may give rise to each other as they interact with each other. The hat also features a ceramic leaf made by Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

受杨人倩在否画廊的展览《对比》启发,我开始对色彩理论感兴趣。在制作这顶帽子时,我尝试运用补色的材料。补色的概念也呼应了中国哲学中的阴阳概念——自然万物皆有互相对立的属性,但也互相依存和转化。这顶帽子上有人倩在景德镇制作的一片陶瓷叶子。


Complementary I 互补1

Complementary I 互补1, 2017. Handpainted cotton fascinator base; painted dusty pink and royal blue sinamay cut from London; pink ostrich feather from London; ceramic beads from artist Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

Inspired by Renqian Yang's exhibition Complementary Colors at Fou Gallery, I become interested in the color theory. In this hat, I try to use materials with complementary colors. The idea of complementary colors resonates with yin and yang in Chinese philosophy—seemingly opposite forces may actually be complementary and interconnected in the natural world. They may give rise to each other as they interact with each other. The hat also features ceramic beads made by Renqian Yang in Jingdezhen, China.

受杨人倩在否画廊的展览《对比》启发,我开始对色彩理论感兴趣。在制作这顶帽子时,我尝试运用补色的材料。补色的概念也呼应了中国哲学中的阴阳概念——自然万物皆有互相对立的属性,但也互相依存和转化。这顶帽子上有人倩在景德镇制作的一些陶瓷珠。


O'Keefe's Dog 奥基弗的狗

O'Keefe's Dog 奥基弗的狗,2016. Grey sinamay fasicnator base from London; pink silk ribbon from New York; hand painted silk ribbon from New York; vintage poodle from East Village, New York.

想做奥基弗的花,在沙漠和原野里恣意开放的大花,于是做了这一顶帽子。小狗胸针来自纽约东村的一家古董店,奥基弗如果有小狗,大概也生活在花丛中。现属于新泽西的Dana.


Kiss - A Tribute to Salvador Dali 吻 - 向达利致敬

Kiss 吻, 2016. Black cotton teardrop fascinator base, painted with golden color; hand painted silk cut; grey and ivory sinamay trim from London; a kiss vintage brooch from East Village, New York.

After finding a vintage broach of a kiss from East Village (New York), I immediately thought of the Mae West Room by Dali. A sofa with the shape of lips painted with crimson lipstick, a wall of a nose's shape and two paintings in black and white makes up the face of the Mae West Room. So, this hat was made with an array of different materials that assemble a carefree face.

在纽约东村偶得的一枚红唇古董胸针让我一下想到达利创作的梅.惠斯特房间(Mae West Room),烈焰红唇的沙发,鼻子形状的壁炉,和墙上两张关于巴黎的黑白画组成了好莱坞女星梅.惠斯特的面容。因此做了这顶帽子,不同元素散落其中,也有如一张随意错置的脸

Salvador Dali, The Mae West Room. Dalí Theatre and Museum.

Salvador Dali, The Mae West Room. Dalí Theatre and Museum.


GILLES 小丑吉尔

Gilles 小丑吉儿, 2016. Black cotton fascinator base from Fujian; handpainted silk fascinator base; vintage brooch from Manling; pearl ivory veiling from London; grey and blue sinamay trim from London.

This hat was inspired by Gilles (Pierrot), a masterpiece by the 18th-century French painter Jean-Antoine Watteau. A clown in white satin stands isolated from his cheerful companions, with a sad and enigmatic look on his face. The hunchbacked dwarf in Oscar Wilde's story, who died of a broken heart, probably had the same look on his face when he saw himself in the mirror. Happiness and sadness are like the two sides of a coin, cannot be separated from one another. This hat was customized for Ms. Choi from Jiangxi, the owner of a private club Yoka Choi in Nanchang, China.

法国十八世纪初艺术家华铎笔下的《小丑吉尔》是这顶帽子的灵感,小丑穿着华丽的衣饰,站在花园的中央,背后的人们喜笑颜开,然而他的脸上却写满了悲伤和茫然。王尔德笔下心碎而死的矮人,在镜子里看见自己时大概是同样的表情。欢笑与忧伤,硬币的两面,人生的必然。这是给江西的蔡小姐的定制,蔡小姐是南昌一间设计会所Yoka Chai的主人.

Jean-Antoine Watteau. Gilles, 1718-1719. Oil on canvas. Louvre.


Summer Day - A Tribute to Georgia O'Keeffe 夏日 - 向奥基弗致敬

Summer Day - A Tribute to Georgia O'Keeffe 夏日 - 向奥基弗致敬, 2015. Black cotton fascinator base from Fujian; vintage iris from a second-hand Iranian bookstore in Boston; reindeer lapel brooch from Guangdong; ivory silk ribbon from New York; purple and grey feather from New York.

A random encounter with Georgia O'Keeffe’s Summer Days in the Whitney Museum of American Art made it my favorite work of hers. In the barren desert landscape, a suspended animal skull forms a sharp contrast with the vibrant Southwestern flowers. Cycles of life and death are part of law of nature; after all, all comes from dust, and to dust all return. This is a winter tribute to O’Keeffe’s summer. 

在惠特尼美术馆偶遇的《夏日》成为我最爱的一幅格鲁吉亚‧奥基弗的作品,在广袤的荒漠之上,动物头骨和盛放的花朵形成突兀的对比,生死循环本是自然界规律的一部分。一切始于尘,归于尘,在冬日里向奥基弗的夏日致敬。

Georgia O'Keeffe. Summer Days, 1936. Oil on canvas. Whitney Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Calvin Klein

Georgia O'Keeffe. Summer Days, 1936. Oil on canvas. Whitney Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Calvin Klein


MAGRITTE 马格利特

Magritte 马格利特, 2015. linen fascinator base from London; cornblue feather from London; Merry widow sequin veil from New York; Jewlery pin from New York

René Magritte, The Son of Man, 1946, Oli on Canvas, private collection.

René Magritte, The Son of Man, 1946, Oli on Canvas, private collection.

"Magritte" now belongs to Mo, a smart girl who works in finance industry. Mo has a secret passion for art and music, and spends a lot of time to discover new exhibitions, performances and the best coffee shops in New York city. Mo fell in love with "Magritte" at first sight. The cornflower blue feather reminds her of the ostrich documentary she watched at National Geography Channel. 

”玛格利特“以我喜爱的超现实主义艺术家——雷内.玛格利特命名。来自伦敦的镶钻黑纱有一种神秘的氛围。“玛格利特”现在属于纽约的墨墨。墨墨在金融行业工作,但热爱艺术和音乐,业余走遍了各大博物馆、音乐演出,以及探索纽约最好吃的咖啡。


MADAME X x女士, 2015.

Madame X X女士, 2015. Black cotton fascinator base from Fujian; silk ribbon from New York; vintage pin from New Haven; dot veil from London.

John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1884, Oil on canvas, Collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art, Courtesy Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fund, 1916

John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1884, Oil on canvas, Collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art, Courtesy Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fund, 1916

 I always want to make a fascinator that is black and white, elegant and simple, like the famous painting Madame X by John Singer Sargent. The vintage pin is found on a trip to New Haven. “Madame X" now belongs to Jing from Beijing.

一直想做一款配小黑裙的帽子,像莎金特笔下的《X女士》,简单的线条和颜色,不会喧宾夺主。配一枚古董胸针,是去New Haven郊游时偶得。这顶属于北京的Jing.


MONET'S POND 莫奈的池塘

Monet's Pond 莫奈的池塘, 2015.7. Black cotton fascinator base; hand painted cherry from New York; Monet's Pond fabric from a broken umbrella.

 

 

An old Monet's Pond umbrella form Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York used to be my favorite belonging in a rainy day. Feels like in a waterlily pond walking in the rain. When it's broken this year, I made a hat out of the broken umbrella, to give it a new life. The pearls look like raindrops dancing on the waterlily pads. Now it belongs to Ms. Chen, the director of Shangart Gallery, Shanghai.

大都会博物馆的一把莫奈旧伞,用了三年。每次下雨时都像走在湿润的睡莲池塘。今年终于坏了,于是拆下来做了这顶帽子,给它新生命。珍珠像雨滴划过莲叶。现属于上海香格纳画廊的总监陈艳小姐。

Claude Monet, Water Lilies, 1916-19, Oil on Canvas. Collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of Louise Reinhardt Smith, 1983

Claude Monet, Water Lilies, 1916-19, Oil on Canvas. Collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of Louise Reinhardt Smith, 1983


PERSISTENCE OF MEMORY - A TRIBUTE TO DALI 永恒的记忆-向达利致敬

Persistence of Memory - A Tribute to Dali 永恒的记忆-向达利致敬, 2015.7. Hand painted cotton fascinator base; ivory crin from London; vintage clock pin from New York; cornflower loose feather from London.

"The Persistence of Memory" is my favorite work by Salvador Dali. Soft melting pocket watches lie on deserted beach, hang on trees or attach to branches. I hand-painted the fascinator base with Chinese mineral paint, one of the first attempt to paint on the fabrics. Purple and blue color melt on cotton fabric, creating a nebula-like pattern. I also add a clock vintage pin found in Boston's market. The hands of the clock are movable. It's human being's wildest dream to control time and memory. Memory can be fleeting, or persistent. The current owner of the hat is a fourteen years old girl named Jiayi from Beijing. It's a gift from Jiayi's mother. Jiayi fell in love with it at first sight. Although Jiayi can't name a reason why she loves the hat, she did some research of its title and discovered Salvador Dali and his realistic clocks. Now I remember that I discovered Dali at the same age, the age of fourteen.

《记忆的永恒》是我高中时最爱的一幅达利作品,软绵绵的时钟在荒芜的海滩上,或悬挂在树枝上,或横卧在长着长睫毛的怪脸上。这顶帽子是我最开始用国画染料给帽子染色时做的一顶,用毛笔将蓝色和紫色晕染开来,再用手揉进棉布的纹理,最后的效果出乎自己的意料,很像星云。加上一枚在波士顿古着市场寻得的旧胸针,时针和秒针还会转动,好像时间大神可以随心所欲控制,记忆可以转瞬即逝,也可刹那永恒。现在属于北京的嘉仪,是嘉仪妈妈送给十四岁的女儿的礼物。嘉仪对它一见钟情。我问嘉仪为什么喜欢,她说只是出于灵感,但又因为它的名字去研究达利是谁,而喜欢上达利的作品,和海滩上软绵绵的钟。于是我回忆起,刚巧我发现达利的那一年也是十四岁。

Salvador Dali, The Persistence of Memory, 1931, Oil on Canvas. Collection of Museum of Modern Art.

Salvador Dali, The Persistence of Memory, 1931, Oil on Canvas. Collection of Museum of Modern Art.


GEOMETRY 几何, 2015

Geometry 几何,2015. Hand painted cotton fascinator base, black mesh from Brooklyn, vintage pearl glaze botton from Morgan O'Hara's collection, red and black ribbon from New York; swan vintage necklace from New York 


One day, Danqing asked me if I can make a hat purely comprised of geometric shapes. I accepted her challenge and made this one, with black and red, round and square shapes. It's inspired by the clean and simple cut from the Modern Age. Now it belongs to Xue Danqing, who resides in Philadelphia and New York.

应丹青之邀做一顶几何构成的帽子,用黑红两色和最简单的方块和圆形,像是Modern Age流行的简单利落的剪裁。现在属于纽约/费城的薛丹青。


ANGEL'S WING 天使之翼

Angel's Wing 天使之翼, 2015. Hand painted cotton fascinator base; pearl sinamay from London; cornflower blue feather and ostrich spine feather from London; pin from New York.

Experiment on the method that Lee Ufan used in his 70s series "From Point." Paint Klein blue with one brush stroke, from left to right, until the color goes blank. Cornflower blue feather is from London. Now the hat belongs to Camile Yan, founder of Between Art Lab, an alternative space in Beijing and Shanghai.

想尝试李禹焕70年代的《从点》系列的画法,于是做了这一顶。克莱因蓝从左到右,直到颜料用尽。矢车菊蓝的羽毛来自伦敦。现在属于玉婷,Between艺术实验室的创始人。

            Lee Ufan, From Point, 1978. glue and stone pigment on canvas, courtesy Pace Gallery.

            Lee Ufan, From Point, 1978. glue and stone pigment on canvas, courtesy Pace Gallery.


BIG TREE - A TRIBUTE TO MATISSE 大树——向马蒂斯致敬, 2015

Big Tree - A Tribute to Matisse 大树-向马蒂斯致敬, 2015. Smartie sinamay fascinator base from London, quercus leave from Brooklyn, handmade leather and cashmere cut, black feather from New York, vintage red bean from Morgan O'Hara's collection.

 

A customized birthday gift for Ms. Li Yiyao (Big Tree) in Suzhou/New York. The golden quercus leave was found at Macon Street in Brooklyn, New York. I cut leaves with cashmere and leather, which are collaged with real leaves, to create a special autumn. "Big Tree - A Tribute to Matisse" is inspired by Matisse's later papercut work.

为苏州/纽约的大树小姐定制的生日礼物。在布鲁克林梅肯街上拾得一片金色的橡树叶,用克什米尔羊毛和皮料剪出叶片的形状,真实的树叶和人造的树叶共同编织了秋天。受马蒂斯晚年的剪纸艺术启发。

Henry Matisse, The Parakeet and the Mermaid. 1952. Gouache on paper, cut and pasted, and charcoal on paper. The collection of Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam. Acquired with the assistance of the Vereeniging Rembrandt and the Prince Bernhard Cultuurfond.

Henry Matisse, The Parakeet and the Mermaid. 1952. Gouache on paper, cut and pasted, and charcoal on paper. The collection of Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam. Acquired with the assistance of the Vereeniging Rembrandt and the Prince Bernhard Cultuurfond.


PRIME 三原色

Prime 三原色, 2015. Smartie sinamay fascinator base from London, black cotton fascinator base from Fujian, blue cotton cut from Fujian; hand painted silk cut; vintage golden pearl pin from New York; vintage red bean from Morgan O'Hara's collection.

Red, yellow, and blue, thousands of hues are born out of the three primary colors. Straight lines and curves - simple geometric shapes compose the essential structure of the world. From Piet Mondrian to Roy Lichtenstein, many artists have used the three primary colors in an effort to return to the very basic. For me, by bringing a found earring (yellow), a cut felt (blue), and vintage red beans from Morgan O'Hara (red) together, I created my own version of the “Prime.”
红,黄,蓝,最基本的三原色,可以生出万千色彩。直线,曲线,最基础的几何形,组成了世界的基本结构。从蒙德里安到利希滕斯坦,许多艺术家都曾用三原色创作,是回归最基本造型的努力。而我,试着用找来的古董耳钉(黄),裁减的羊毛片(蓝),和来自Morgan O'Hara的小红果(红)创造自己的版本。

Piet Mondrian, Composition in Red, Blue, and Yellow, 1937-42, Oil on Canvas. Museum of Modern Art, The Sidney and Harriet Janis Collection.

Piet Mondrian, Composition in Red, Blue, and Yellow, 1937-42, Oil on Canvas. Museum of Modern Art, The Sidney and Harriet Janis Collection.


KLEIN BLUE 克莱茵蓝

Klein Blue 克莱茵蓝, 2015. Hand painted klein blue cotton fascinator base; ivory sinamay trim from London; purple crystal from Morgan O'Hara's collection; ivory pearls from New York; ostrich spine feather from London.

Yves Klein, Victoire de samothrace (S9), 1962–1973, pigments on plaster, metal.

Yves Klein, Victoire de samothrace (S9), 1962–1973, pigments on plaster, metal.

来自苏州的淑红找我定制一顶克莱茵蓝的帽子,希望在去欧洲参加自己策划的物派展览上戴。由法国艺术家伊夫.克莱茵混合而成并获取专利的克莱茵蓝,因为他一系列的行为艺术作品而广获认知。我用国画颜料里的群青色和品兰色调制而成的克莱茵蓝,纯度稍低。“克莱茵蓝”现属于周淑红小姐,苏州艺周文化的CEO。
Apple Zhou from Suzhou approached me for a custom made hat in Klein Blue. Her wish is to wear the hat to attend a Mono-ha exhibition she is curating in Europe. Mixed and patented by French artist Yves Klein, International Klein Blue(IKB) is widely recognized because of a series of Klein’s performance art. I mixed my own version of IKB using Chinese paint Qunqing and Pinglan, which has a slightly lower purity. "Klein Blue" now belongs to Ms.  Zhou, CEO of Yizhou Culture Group.


IRIS GARDEN 鸢尾花园

Iris Garden 鸢尾花园, 2015. Hand painted cotton fascinator base; irovy sinamay from London; white loose feather from London; vintage irises from an Iranian bookstore in Boston; hand painted silk ribbon from New York.

In May 1889, after episodes of self-mutilation and hospitalization, Vincent van Gogh chose to enter an asylum in Saint-Rémy, France. Within the first week, he began Irises, working from nature in the asylum's garden. Each one of Van Gogh's irises is unique. He carefully studied their movements and shapes to create a variety of curved silhouettes bounded by wavy, twisting, and curling lines. In a letter to Theo, He called the painting "the lightning conductor for my illness. One year later, Vincent shot himself in the chest with a revolver and died from from a self-inflicted gunshot wound. "Iris Garden" now belongs to Lin Yue in California, a lover of Van Gogh's art and an antique store owner. "

1889年5月,在入住圣雷米精神病院的第一周,梵高开始画《鸢尾花》。从精神病院的鸢尾花园取景,这些蓝紫色的花好像要冲出画面一样。画中的每一枝鸢尾都是独一无二的,他仔细研究它们的动势、线条,描摹它们的交汇。在给弟弟提奥的一封信中,他称它们为“我的疾病的避雷针”。次年7月,梵高在圣雷米自杀身亡。现属于加州的Alex Lin。Alex经营一家古董店,很喜爱梵高。

Vincent Van Gogh, Irises, 1889. Oil on Canvas. Collection of The J. Paul Getty Museum. 

Vincent Van Gogh, Irises, 1889. Oil on Canvas. Collection of The J. Paul Getty Museum. 


GEISHA 日本艺妓

Geisha 日本艺妓, 2015. Hand painted silk fascinator base; vintage chrysanthemum from an Iranian bookstore in Boston; cornflower blue ostrich feather from London; geisha crin from London; stone from Morgan O'Hara's collection.

Geisha is the name of a crin fabric that I found in a shop in London. I am curious how this traditional Japanese culture affect terms in Western design. The fin de siècle Japonisme raised a craze for Asian aesthetics in Europe. Utagawa Kunisada’s depictions of Geisha in his woodblock prints were not considered high art in Japan at his time, but they were well received in Europe. The dramatic postures and rich expressions of the beautiful women in Utagawa’s works greatly inspired impressionists in their portraitures. Degas, Manet and Monet were avid collectors of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, and these prints later influenced the West from design to architecture. For details about Geisha color, please refer to Geisha: Colors of the Flower and Willow World. "Geisha" now belongs to Liliana Gao, a gallerist in New York.

在伦敦一家材料店发现的这种硬纱的颜色叫Geisha(日本艺妓),我好奇这种日本的传统文化如何影响到西方设计的基本术语。19世纪末的和风热潮(Japonisme)在欧洲引发了对东方美术的审美崇拜。歌川国贞描绘的吉原艺妓在日本难登大雅之堂,但在欧洲广为流传。画中美人戏剧化的姿态,细腻丰富的表情为印象派艺术家的肖像创作带来了启发。德加、马奈、莫奈都收藏了不少浮世绘,后又影响到西方设计、建筑的方方面面。 “Geisha"现在属于纽约的高小姐。

Kikukawa Elzan, Otome, from the series Eastern Figures Matched with the Tale of Genji, approx.1818-1823. Woodblock print; ink and color on paper. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, William Sturgis Bigelow Collection, 11.17766.


SOLEIL LEVANT 日出

soleil levant 日出, 2015. Hand painted cotton fascinator base; aqua sinamay fabric from London; vintage purple flower from an Iranian bookstore in Boston; ivory sinamay shush trim from London; pearl from Hansi; vintage Christmas Tree cookie cutter from New York.

This blue hat is custom made for Louis in Paris. Louis loves baking, so I decided to make a dessert-like hat. When I colored the hat, I got inspiration from Monet’s Impression, soleil levant. In the painting, surrounded by fog, the harbor slowly wakes up in the orange morning glow. The Christmas tree-shaped cookie cutter on the hat comes from a set of vintage baking tools I found in East Village in 2011.

给巴黎的王袁旭(Louis)定制的蓝色小礼帽,Louis很爱烘焙,因此决定做一款像甜点的帽子。为“日出”上色时参考了莫奈的《日出.印象》(Impression, soleil levant),笼罩在雾气中的海港在橘色朝霞中慢慢苏醒。帽子上有一枚圣诞树形状的饼干模具,来自2011年在纽约东村淘得的一套古董烘焙工具。

Claude Monet, Impression, soleil levant, 1872. Oil on canvas. Collection of Musée Marmottan Monet.

Claude Monet, Impression, soleil levant, 1872. Oil on canvas. Collection of Musée Marmottan Monet.



BLUE MOUNTAIN 蓝山

Blue Mountain 蓝山, 2016. 2 Hand-painted sinamay fascinator base from London; fabrics from a broken Monet's Pond umbrella; ivory ostrich feather from London; ivory shining yarn from Brooklyn;

衔远山,接绿树。滕藤亲手绘制了一枚有蓝色小山的吊坠,让我制作一顶帽子。蓝色的山脉如同笼罩在清晨的雾气中。于是用品蓝染了帽子底,加上透明的薄纱,在城市中心怀想远方的山。

Tengteng painted a blue mountain pedant for me to make a hat. As if covered by morning fog, the painted image connects to the distant mountains and green woods. Thus I dyed the hat base with royal blue and decorated it with ivory yarn; those who wears it in a busy city might be reminded of far aways mountains.